Mùi ốc quê

“Mùi bùn đất! Đấy mới là mùi đặc trưng của ốc quê mình”. Chỉ có bùn ao, đất ruộng mới có cái mùi ấy. Ai đã từng đi mò ốc, sẽ nhớ mãi cái mùi này. Nó ngấm vào thịt ốc thành vị riêng mà chỉ có ốc ao, ốc đồng Việt Nam ta mới có. Cái mùi vị ấy đã ngấm vào xương thịt, vào tiềm thức chú em tôi. Và cũng chỉ khi đi xa, được ăn ốc xứ người mới làm chú ấy nhớ da diết mùi bùn đất của con ốc quê mình! Tôi không đi xa, không được ăn ốc xứ người nên không nhận ra, cũng không thèm khát cái mùi ấy.

Em tôi sau một thời gian dài làm ăn, sinh sống ở nước ngoài về thăm quê, chỉ thèm bữa ốc luộc. “Tưởng gì? Chiều nay chú sẽ được toại nguyện. Rất đặc trưng, rất dân tộc”. Tôi nói trong hào hứng.
Anh em tôi ngồi bên nồi ốc luộc nóng rẫy. Khói bốc nghi ngút quyện mùi sả, mùi lá chanh thơm lựng. Chúng tôi dùng gai bưởi khêu ốc. Khẩu ốc vàng rộm, quệt nước mắm gừng, ớt, tỏi, vấn vít lá chanh thái chỉ, nhâm nhi với rượu quê cất từ gạo nếp, cùng xuýt xoa khen ngon. “Đi bằng ấy năm chú không được ăn ốc luộc? Xứ người ta lạ nhỉ? Đến con ốc cũng không có mà ăn?” - tôi vừa khêu ốc vừa tò mò tìm hiểu. “Có chứ anh. Ốc Hà Lan, ốc Ấn Độ, ốc Phi châu... có tất. Nhưng không đâu bằng ốc Việt ta”. “Chú nói thế nào ấy? Ốc ta thì có gì? Hôi xì. Người ta phải cho sả, chanh vào nồi luộc. Rồi nước chấm chế thêm gừng, tỏi, ớt để bạt mùi”. “Không hẳn thế. Em ăn ốc xứ người rồi. Cũng đủ thứ gia vị, Nhưng không sao tìm được vị ốc Việt, ốc quê”. Rồi em tôi bất ngờ hỏi. “Anh có thấy trong ốc có mùi gì không?” “Không. Sả, gừng, ớt, tỏi, lá chanh. Hết. Ngon là ở những vị này. À chưa hết. Có phải chú... ?” Em tôi cướp lời“Ở xứ người khêu ốc bằng kim băng, tăm nhựa”. “Đúng. Anh đang định nói đến cái khêu. Gai bưởi góp thêm vị thơm rất đặc trưng, rất quê. Chắc chú nhớ vị gai bưởi?”. “Đúng. Nhưng chưa hết. Em đọc được một vị mà chắc chắn anh không cảm được... ”
Lại một tợp ruợu, lại một con ốc. Rồi chú em tôi chậm rãi: “Ở xứ người ta, như Hà Lan ấy, họ nuôi ốc theo một qui trình công nghệ được kiểm soát chặt chẽ từ nhiệt độ, độ pê - hắt (Ph) của nước đến thành phần thức ăn cho ốc. Vệ sinh an toàn thực phẩm thì thôi rồi. Chặt chẽ và nghiêm ngặt. Miễn bàn. Ốc thành phẩm, con nào con nấy to đều chằn chặn. Vỏ ánh màu vàng chùa. Con ốc béo ngậy, miệng đầy xum xum. Ăn ngon ơi là ngon. Nhưng vẫn không bằng ốc bên ta. Em vẫn nhớ, vẫn thèm ốc ta. Thực ra là thèm cái mùi của ốc ta” “Mùi gì mà chú da diết thế?” “Mùi bùn đất! Đấy mới là mùi đặc trưng của ốc quê mình”. Tôi hơi giật mình, sững sờ. Đúng. Cái mùi hăng hăng, hôi hôi. Hăng chưa đến mức hắc. Hôi chứ không hề thối. Mùi đặc trưng của bùn ao, của lá cậy rụng dưới đáy ao, của đất ruộng. Chỉ có bùn ao, đất ruộng mới có cái mùi ấy. Ai đã từng đi mò ốc, sẽ nhớ mãi cái mùi này. Nó ngấm vào thịt ốc thành vị riêng mà chỉ có ốc ao, ốc đồng Việt Nam ta mới có. Cái mùi vị ấy đã ngấm vào xương thịt, vào tiềm thức chú em tôi. Và cũng chỉ khi đi xa, được ăn ốc xứ người mới làm chú ấy nhớ da diết mùi bùn đất của con ốc quê mình! Tôi không đi xa, không được ăn ốc xứ người nên không nhận ra, cũng không thèm khát cái mùi ấy.
Tôi bỗng cảm thấy chú em tôi đã lớn, đã chững chạc, không còn bé bỏng, lếu láo và nghịch ngợm như thuở nào. Và càng không vô tâm vô tính như cách đây vài chục năm, lúc chú dứt áo ra đi. Tàn bữa tiệc ốc, em tôi đứng dậy vươn vai: “Từ nay đến ngày em đi, anh chị phải cho em ăn vài bữa ốc nữa để sang đấy đỡ thèm”.

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